Most of you reading this already know that cycling is
without a doubt the best way to explore and experience a place. Without
barriers between you and the environment or the high speed that is so common
with other means of travel — you can take it all in one push of the pedal at a
time. But you may have not known that nowhere is this more true than in Vietnam
- a country dominated by two-wheeled vehicles and where most of the people in
the country live outside the major cities along the rural roads. To make your
potential two-wheeled journey more enjoyable, here is some practical
information culled from over many miles bicycling throughout the country while
leading bicycle tours. If you do actually end up traveling through CyclingVietnam and want to share your experiences or travel advice, please send us
note and we'll try and post it on our site.
Be Prepared
Thorough preparation can save big headaches later on. A
cyclist I once encountered in Saigon planned on camping along the way to stay
within a budget. A fine idea in many places, but very difficult to do in
Vietnam and a great way to catch the eye of the police. With this in mind, a
wise first step should be some researching of your trip. There now exists an
enormous amount of information on the Web, including travelogues, health,
weather, and other particularly useful information. Our resources page is a
good place to begin. Get a current, balanced perspective on what is a
rapidly-changing country. For instance, Highway 17 is for the most part
impassible on bicycle, and most other vehicles for that matter, despite looking
like another road on many maps. Many travelogues are very subjective — try to
read between the lines. And some people can't enjoy their travels unless the
going's miserable. For an excellent example of this read Michael Buckley's book
cycling to Xian, especially the sections on eating.
Packing
First and foremost - don't over pack! Besides quality
bicycle parts and certain other essentials like cotton socks, almost anything
forgotten can be bought cheaply in Bangkok, Hong Kong, Saigon and to a lesser
extent, Hanoi and cities along the way. During one trip I picked up a rain
poncho and pith helmet in Hue, plastic fenders in Hoi An, and a bike bell and
derailleur parts in Nha Trang. I've also had decent cycling shorts made in a
Saigon, a dress shoulder pad sewn into the crotch.
Bring a tough bicycle as solid replacement parts are hard to
come by. Want to rent instead? Sorry, that quality of bicycle hasn't yet been
imported. A mountain bike with mixed-use tires for the pavement and dirt is a
wise choice, although if you are comfortable on your touring bike then that is
what you should bring. Pack spare parts and gear such as extra spokes, tubes, a
pump, cables and a spare water bottle. Bring along some tools: a spoke wrench
and chain tool or one of the new multi function tools and a small bottle of
chain lube. Your bicycle box is an excellent place to stuff your helmet and
other supplies into for the trip over as the weight limit is frequently very
high. Don't forget to deflate your tires as some airlines require it.
For easier access to such things as maps, snacks and a
camera, a handlebar bag or rear-mounted rack with bag is indispensable. A
handlebar bell is required equipment - the louder the better. You can buy one
of these en route for about a dollar. Many cyclists find a rear view mirror
attached to a helmet or glasses useful. Padded gloves ease the shock from rough
roads and protect hands from the sun. Carry a photocopy of your passport and
other essential documents and try to use them instead of the originals when
possible. The practice is dying off, but passports have been held by police and
others to extract unreasonable payments. I've also had some success showing my
Driver's License. Bring a couple of newer, not-bought-in-Vietnam maps (ITMB in
Vancouver, Canada publishes excellent ones). A guide book may confuse more than
help and which should be assumed not entirely accurate - Vietnam changes
rapidly and many places listed therein have been spoiled by success. A phrase
book is also handy for at least pointing to unpronounceable words. Sharing some
pictures from home is always great at breaking the ice, although the Vietnamese
are typically very informal anyway.
On the Road
On the bike, wear a hat, long sleeve cotton shirt with the
collar turned up (thanks Henry) and plenty of sunscreen on exposed skin. A
wide-brim hat helps protect your face and neck (the ubiquitous Vietnamese green
pith helmets are excellent for this and only cost a dollar or two). Flying
insects, trucks kicking up debris and children occasionally throwing things
make sunglasses a good idea. Despite the excitement, don't overdue it the first
few days riding as your body adjusts to the climate, overcomes jet lag, and digests
new, exotic foods. Adding fatigue thrown to the mix can quickly compromise your
health. Everything, including cycling, is much more difficult in the tropics -
that combined with poor road conditions make it wise to scale back distance
projections made over a map from home or the cafe table in Hanoi after a couple
of coffees. Drink fluids constantly - heat stroke is a real possibility.
Bottled water can be scarce in rural areas but there is always plenty of boiled
tea, bottled sodas and beer. Check bottle seals for tampering - sometimes
bottled water is merely refilled. And because the Vietnamese seldom drink plain
water, asking for it may get you rice wine instead! Nouc mia is sugar cane
juice made at roadside stalls and is very refreshing - look for the long stalks
of the sugar cane lying around. Coconut juice is also common and delicious.
Carry lots of small bills, asking the price before drinking anything as the
price may rise dramatically after you have quenched your thirst if you do not.
Intense heat combined with bicycling may make ice
irresistible, but in my experience it is usually safe - except in Hoi An, where
for some mysterious reason we've had a high percentage of people go down with
stomach problems. Raw vegetables are a no-no, try to eat only cooked or peeled
foods. Speaking of stomach problems, carry toilet paper. Rural toilets rarely
have it and a bush along the way may actually be preferable. Cookies and other
sweets are well stocked in numerous cafes that line the roads. These cafes are
also the best spots to find shade, cool down and perhaps nod off for a while.
Don't be afraid to stop into homes along the way: in Vietnam it feels like you
are always a welcome guest. Infections can happen very rapidly - treat cuts and
abrasions quickly and thoroughly. Second skin bandage is handy for covering
areas exposed to the rigors of cycling. For medications, pharmacies are well
stocked in Western drugs and are present in even small towns.
It's an old travel advice cliché, but learning some of the language
will certainly help and enrich your experiences on the road in Vietnam. One
especially important phrase is bao nhieu or how much? You will often be
overcharged if you ask the price first, but you may be grossly overcharged if
you do not. Bargaining is customary and if you choose not to you may pay top
dollar. More complaints about traveling in Vietnam are about this one issue.
Try not to take it personally (it's not) and move on that much wiser. Lonely
Planet puts out a very good phrase book to help you along (although keep in
mind phrases and accents are different in the North, Central and Southern
regions and tonal languages are best learned verbally, not read). Phrases in
your book can simply be pointed to in a jam. Fortunately, you should find no
shortage of eager tutors - even on two wheels.
Hotel laundry can be rough - you may prefer to wash your own
delicates like cycling shorts and sun dry. Also make sure to double check all
your clothes have been returned to you correctly. The Vietnamese day starts at
sun up - everyday. At the hotel, ask for a room off the street and earplugs may
help even if you don't sleep in. Some cities like Saigon have constant noise
not just during the morning rush hour.
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